How To Install Alarm Magnetic Contacts
Search this site. Installing Magnetic Door Switches Recessed Type Recessed magnetic door switches are made with the same magnetic reed switches used for surface-mount alarm contacts. Instead of a rectangular housing, recessed alarm contacts have a cylindrical case.
This makes them easy to install, just by drilling a hole of the proper diameter. The magnets are also designed with the same type of cylindrical housing.
How to Install a Magnetic Door Switch. Most alarm contacts use a magnetic reed switch. DIY home alarm system projects, installing a surface-mount sensor. Tane Alarm Products has been manufacturing magnetic alarm contacts since 1984, combining the highest quality electromechanical reed switches with high power magnets.
Find information on Recessed magnetic switches are one of the most commonly used devices to protect doors in wired alarm systems. Recessing the switch makes it almost invisible, and the cases are available in several colors to match different door finishes. For just a few examples of available window and door sensors, see this page on There are two standard diameters of recessed switches: 3/8' and 1/4'. The larger 3/8' size is easier to work with, and are the most widely used. Sometimes wires are brought out through a hole in the doorframe that doesn't line up with the hole into the wall cavity. This can make feeding the wires back in almost impossible. Try 'helping' the wire along using a small, flat-bladed screwdriver or needle-nose pliers.
If this doesn't work, double drilling is the quickest way to go. This is nothing more than drilling a second hole alongside the original one. This is drilled deep enough to stuff the wiring inside, until the switch can then be seated fully. Before drilling, look closely to see which direction the wire is coming from. Then, drill on the opposite side, to avoid hitting the wire. Feed the wiring into the new space, and seat the switch as usual.
Fill the empty hole with caulking, and smooth it flat with a putty knife, credit card, or a piece of cardboard. Do you have an older system that's starting to have problems? Or, do you have a working system, but no programming information?
Why not get a few from companies in your area? There is no obligation to buy, and no credit card information is requested. Just as with the switch, use a dab of caulking in the hole before inserting the magnet. While it's not likely that the magnet will fall up out of the hole, magnets often come loose from their plastic casing.
They can then fall deeper into the hole, often to the point that they don't trigger the switch. Test for clearance by closing the door slowly, and watching for any collision between the switch and magnet. If they hit each other, one or both must be seated a bit deeper.
Start with the magnet, by tapping it gently with the handle of a screwdriver. If necessary, tap it in until it's flush with the door surface. This will often cause the plastic flange of the case to break off. This causes no harm, since the caulking will stop the magnet from falling too far down. (You did use caulking, didn't you?!). Check clearance again, and if needed, tap the switch to seat it flush. Testing Magnetic Switches After the system is complete, check all openings for alignment.
The easy way to do this is with the 'Chime' feature, found on most alarm systems. This will give an audible tone or chirp when any perimeter door or window is opened. Some panels, like the DSC brand, also sound when closed. To use the feature, first enable it at one of the keypads. Then close all the openings in the house until the keypad shows a green light, or 'Ready' condition. Pick a door to start with, and open and close it several times.
You should hear a beep for each opening. Next, close the door so it latches. Try to pull or push the door open against the latch.
If you don't get a beep, the magnetic door switch and magnet are in good alignment. If the keypad sounds off while the door is still closed, the two are not lined up well enough. Check the positions of the switch and magnet, and re-drill the magnet to more closely line up with the switch.
Caulk the magnet in place, and retest the alignment. Caution: If you have a door that doesn't latch securely, or has more than 1/2' of movement when the latch is engaged, then proper switch alignment isn't possible.
Repair or replace whatever latching hardware is necessary. Until it's fixed, don't connect that particular door to the system. A door that doesn't close securely will only cause you headaches, in the form of false alarms! Re-drilling and moving the magnet should put it in good alignment with the switch. For magnets located in the top of the door, the double-drilling scars won't be visible. If you have to re-drill a magnet in the side of a door, be careful not to remove any more wood than necessary to get the job done. Then, use caulking or wood filler to repair the damage.
For tips on how to prewire for door switches, see Find at Amazon.com. Get help installing. All trademarks are the property of their respective owners. This site is supported through affiliate marketing. A small commission is earned from purchases which funds site research & upkeep.
How To Install Alarm System
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How to Fit Magnetic Contacts This article outlines the steps in fitting magnetic contacts to an alarm system. Introduction Magnetic contacts are two part devices comprising a reed switch and a magnet. They are almost exclusively fitted as normally closed devices (NC) where the reeed switch is held closed circuit by the magnet.
On removing the magnet the reed switch goes open circuit. Magnetic contacts are available in a multiple of design variations ranging from small diameter flush fitting versions to heavy duty roller-shutter door surface mounted versions. The operating gap (the distance from the magnet to the switch) varies from around 15mm for small contacts to 65mm for large contacts. The contacts are also available as pre-wired versions (connected into a local junction box) or with terminals (usually 5 terminals, 2 for alarm and the other 3 for looping in other detectors). Magnetic contacts are wired using 4 core cable (2 for alarm and 2 for tamper). More than one magnetic contact can be connected to a zone using one length of 4 core and if required magnetic contacts and powered detectors (e.g. PIRs) can be wired to the same zone but in this case 6 core cable will be required for the powered detectors.
When positioning magnetic contacts bear in mind the following. The contact should be fitted at or very near to the opening edge of the door or window i.e. Not near the hinge.
It is usually preferable to fit the contact near the top of the door or window in order to prevent moisture ingress and/or physical damage. Obviously with roller shutter doors and the like, the contact has to be fitted where it will be most effective. Do not position the contact where there is a lot of play in the door when closed, also make sure that all doors and windows stay shut when closed - you may have to reposition the door catch to eliminate any excessive play.
Fitting Magnetic Contacts This section describes the physical fitting of variouds types of magnetic contact. The electrical connections are described below. Surface mounted magnetic contacts.
Flush mounted magnetic contacts Fitting a single surface mounted magnetic contact - terminal type This describes the fitting of a single magnetic contact, i.e. Wired at the end of a series or connected directly to the control panel. The contact as supplied comprises a magnet (fitted to the moving part e.g. Door) and a reed switch (fitted to the static frame).
The switch part is fitted with 5 terminals (2 for alarm and 3 for the looping-in of other detectors - see wiring below. Decide on the positioning of the contact bearing the following in mind. The contact should be fitted at or very near to the opening edge of the door or window i.e. Not near the hinge. It is usually preferable to fit the contact near the top of the door or window in order to prevent moisture ingress and/or physical damage.
Do not position the contact where there is a lot of play in the door when closed, also make sure that all doors and windows stay shut when closed - you may have to reposition the catch to eliminate any excessive play. Run the cable from the control panel through any holes in walls to the magnetic contact. Connect the cable to the contact as shown in the diagram (core colours are arbitrary). Do not strip more of the outer sheath than is necessary.
Make a small notch in the edge of the switch (opposite side to the arrow - if present) such that when the switch is secured to the door the cable will be trapped. Screw the switch to the frame such that when the magnet is fixed to the door or window it is in close proximity to the switch. If the contacts are marked with arrows then these should point to each other. Note: it is usually possible to fit the contacts at right angles to each other i.e. The top face of one part facing the side of the other.
It is best to check with a continuity tester if an unorthodox positioning is required. Fix the magnet to the door or window and check (using a continuity tester or connecting to a zone on the panel) that the switch opens/closes in response to the door opening/closing. Secure the cable at a point close to the switch and then secure the cable back to the panel. Work towards the panel such that any slack is at the panel end. Connect the alarm cores into the 2 zone terminals and the tamper cores into the global tamper circuit - see below. Fitting surface magnetic contacts - pre-wired type Pre-wired magnetic contacts are connected into the alarm system using a junction box between the detector and the alarm circuit. The same considerations for positioning the contacts is as previously mentioned.
Fitting Flush Magnetic Contacts This procedure describes the fitting of 20mm terminal type flush contacts, but the procedure is similar for other variations including pre-wired types which should be connected through a junction box. Flush magnetic contacts are fitted into the edge of the door (magnet) and the dooor frame (switch) and as such can only be fitted to wooden doors They are wired in the same way as surface contacts.
The following describes how to fit a 20mm flush magnetic contact. Decide whereabouts on the door to fit the contact bearing in mind the following. Do not fit a flush magnetic contact near the bottom of an external door - damp will almost certainly rise up inside the frame and corrode the contacts. Ensure that there is sufficient space to drill a hole through the back of the door frame to access the rear of the switch. Mark the position of the switch on the door edge. The easiest way to do this is to push a small screwdriver between the door and frame with the door shut and rock the screwdriver from side to side to leave matching indentations in the door edge and frame. Using a 20mm spade bit, drill a hole in the door edge to slightly deeper than the depth of the magnet.
Drill a corresponding hole in the door frame to the depth of the switch plus around 15mm to allow for the wiring connections. The contacts are fitted with a flanged faceplate. If the gap between the door and frame is sufficient, the flange need not be recessed. Where there is insufficient clearance or if desired, the flange should be recessed. To recess the flange; push the magnet and switch into their respective holes and mark round the flange. Remove the switch and magnet and remove approximately 2mm of wood from the face of the door edge and frame such that when the magnet and switch are pushed in their faces are flush with the surrounding wood.
Connecting Multiple Magnetic Contacts It is possible to connect more than one magnetic contact to a zone using the wiring diagram below. It can be quite difficult to get the wiring neat between the detectors. The diagram shows surface contacts being chained together but the same wiring principle applies to flush contacts and pre-wired contacts using junction boxes.
Note: The above diagram shows all 4 cores being cut and and connected to terminals, however, it is possible to cut just one of the alarm cores and one tamper core at each detector and just run the others past. A bit tricky but can be done with practice.